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Common rusting problem and worn disc's and pads, across jaguar's Fpace, E pace XE on the ICE cars they blame driving style 1st, the actual cause is the vector breaking which is working at ALL times to assit handling regardless if breaking , Plus poor material choice for the intended purpose.

I use high regen on my Ipace, but now having a serious rethink after readlng the Ipace also suffers rusting problems.
 

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I'm very glad that you posted that warning - I too, have the first 2 year service due this Monday with 9000 miles recorded. I use high regen all the time but I'm just off to do a bit of hard braking with it off, in preparation. I'm surprised they don't just clean the disks up..it's not wear after all...
Regards
Chris
 

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If you use low regen you just drive normally and the discs stay clean, you get some regen when you lift off, similar to an ICE, the first touch on the brake increases regen, more pressure up to full regen, then physical braking. As you come to a standstill braking always holds the car, mine is set to "creep" so again the brakes hold the car, it just seems natural to me to drive as if it was an automatic.

Low regen makes no difference to the amount of regen, it just means you use the brake pedal instead of "one pedal" driving, inefficient if you rate moving your foot across.
 

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Delta5 said:
the first touch on the brake increases regen, more pressure up to full regen, then physical braking.
Do you have any sources or documentation that supports what you claim?

I.e. that pressing the brake pedal (when on low regen) does NOT engage the physical brakes at first, but instructs the car to switch to full regen?
 

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As I've been driving the car for over a year its pretty good evidence.
In low regen the power meter registers regen progressively as you press the pedal, from high speeds it will get to maximum regen, less from lower speeds. Regen also registers in autocruise as you approach a car in front at a higher speed, it does not instruct full regen just progressive according to pedal pressure.
 

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Ever time I charge to 100% with low regen , 2 or 3 heavy brakes keeps the discs clean.
 

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I just drive it 'like I stole it' - as the American chaps would say! When the roads allow…..a 2 or 3 minute burst of 'lively' driving does the necessary.

:D
 

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Out of interest, I have just checked the discs and pads on mine. All the discs seem fine although the rears do have more than a couple of millimeters of disc rust at both the top and bottom extremities. Also, all the discs have slight rust pitting whereas an ICE cars has shiny discs where the pads wear.

It is the pads that are interesting. The fronts have plenty of depth to them, in fact, I would say they are have hardy worn at all. The rears are a different story. They currently have half the depth compared to the fronts. Now, that means either "new" rear pads have less depth from the get-go or they have been wearing considerably faster than the fronts, which is odd.

If looking at a newish car, can someone confirm the depth of the front pads and rears pads are the same?

If the pads all start out with the same depth of friction material then this situation could mean the bias between front and rear brakes is too far to the rear. Greater wear at the rear could be causing the noisy brakes just as the car stops.
 

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Tall Phil said:
Out of interest, I have just checked the discs and pads on mine. All the discs seem fine although the rears do have more than a couple of millimeters of disc rust at both the top and bottom extremities. Also, all the discs have slight rust pitting whereas an ICE cars has shiny discs where the pads wear.

It is the pads that are interesting. The fronts have plenty of depth to them, in fact, I would say they are have hardy worn at all. The rears are a different story. They currently have half the depth compared to the fronts. Now, that means either "new" rear pads have less depth from the get-go or they have been wearing considerably faster than the fronts, which is odd.

If looking at a newish car, can someone confirm the depth of the front pads and rears pads are the same?

If the pads all start out with the same depth of friction material then this situation could mean the bias between front and rear brakes is too far to the rear. Greater wear at the rear could be causing the noisy brakes just as the car stops.
Edge rust (which is nigh on impossible to shift) on the discs can cause odd brake noises. I had to have a whole set of discs replaced on my second GTR because of disc rust off the main surface and close to the wheel hub. This caused horrible brake squeal when stopping.

I would like to think a set of iPace discs could be replaced for a lot less than the £2.5k it cost me for a set of GTR discs
 

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Has anyone noticed that the I-Pace disc brake flange has changed on the new Jaguar I-Pace and F-Pace cars in the dealers showroom.

On my I-Pace looking at the disk through the alloy wheel spokes there is a curved recess between the wheel mounting boss and the friction surface of the disc.

The newer cars have a much larger diameter wheel mounting flange with a noticeable castellated or notched appearance. Could this be an improved disc design to stop the rusting?

Non OEM discs and brake pads should be available soon as the I-Pace is now in its 4th year of production, prices should be better than those from the dealer.

Cheers, Steve

Edit: Photos added

Original Disc Version
Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car

New Disc Version
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hubcap
 

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Does the parking/Hold brake just work on the rears?
If this is the case it'll be the same as F Paces + many other dragging the rears on take off/releasing result more wear on rear.
 

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I have added some disc hub photos 2 posts before this one, to show the most obvious change in the appearance of the Disc.

Cheers Steve
 

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If the parking brake was dragging it may well wear the pads more, indeed if it drags so much range would be badly affected, there certainly would no be any surface corrosion.
As for edge and hub corrosion, other premium brands fit plated or high temperature coatings to maintain appearance - Jaguar don't bother!.
 

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Delta5 said:
If the parking brake was dragging it may well wear the pads more, indeed if it drags so much range would be badly affected, there certainly would no be any surface corrosion.
He did say the possible dragging only applied to the brake release, not all the time!
 

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Tall Phil,
you asked about pads, just bought Wheels From an F Pace and wanted to check fitting.
I have driven 500 miles so far and pads look the same thickness.
It was the same on F pace forum the rears wear quicker as the EPB release
releases it drags on the disc = more wear.

 

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RichT said:
Oh and one other thing -
I suspect that one reason Jaguar recommend always charging to 100% is exactly this - so the friction brakes will get used a bit and thus be less prone to corrosion.
That has worked for me; I always charge to 100%
 

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Barthog,

Thanks for the photos, makes sense now.

Also thanks all for the explanations. So, if the rears wear faster then, because of traction control and "handbrake" drag, to get rid of the brake noise should I replace with non-oem harder pads? Would that work?

My discs look similar to the pictures shown so I will try charging to 100% to see if they clean up. Due to the battery buffer it is not really 100% anyway.
 

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I had 1/3 of my F Pace discs rusted and so bad braking was affected. I wouldn't replace with JLR to have the same problem so put these on.
EBC Disc and Pad sets look great and performance amazing and cost £450 half JLR
Many more Brands out there and cheaper options.
 

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Looking great. Nice clean caliper and disc.

I think I will live with the noisy brakes until EBC come out with their "EV" brake discs and pads. Mind you, not sure how non-JLR parts affect the warranty?
 
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