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Traction battery fault

73K views 201 replies 51 participants last post by  Jamesronan  
#1 ·
The I-pace has a traction battery fault shown on the dash.

I have ordered 2 new batteries as they appear to be original and it’s a 2019 car.

however I have charged both batteries fully.

I have also noticed that the traction battery is loosing 3-5% per night. I went out yesterday evening and can see the hazard light is illuminated several hours after locking the car.

though the internal door lock leds were on too.

the jaguar remote app shows the car is unlocked, but says updated now when you start it, MyPace app shows the doors locked.

I am going to attempt a tcu reset tonight as per the jaguar bulletin as it looks like the 12v system is not shutting down.

If that fails is it worth disconnecting both 12v batteries to reset it?
 
#2 ·
I had the same fault as others, i.e. hazard light illuminated forever and loss of charge. I resolved this by disconnecting the 12v batteries in the order recommended in the manual, i.e. auxiliary one first, then starter battery. Waited 30 min to ensure complete discharge of the stuck module, then reconnected in the reverse order. Don't forget first to set the car into Service mode, other wise you will get called by the tracker people. There is acomplete illustrated instruction for this 12v disconnect somewhere on the forum. I will edit this post if I find it. EDIT found it: see attached.
 

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#3 ·
Thanks, good point on the tracker, thanks.

do you have to reset loads of system after the reset? Radio stations navigation etc?
 
#4 ·
The only thing that I found as a post-reconnect problem was the left hand switchpack on the steering wheel may not illuminate and so the controls will be dead for that side. If that happens, there is a weird but official fix. Remove fuse F33 from the Passenger Junction Box under the rear seat while the car is switched on, Replace immediately, and switchpack comes to life. Otherwise you may need to reset the windows auto closing action, but I cannot think of anything else.
The last thing I would point out, is that the above fixes may not cure the underlying issue with one or more stuck modules, and sooner or later a full diagnostic might be necessary. I am hoping that I don't have to get this done!
 
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#9 ·
The traction battery error has gone but the MyPace app is showing 13.8v on the hazard led hasn’t gone off after 40 minuted
 
#11 ·
It’s just actually gone to sleep, hazard switch is dark and battery volts at 12.7v
 
#19 ·
Not a Jaguar dealer but they have come and recovered the car, taking it to Jag for diagnosis and battery replacement. 12v showing 7.9 volts
 
#22 ·
Cars back from dealer, only 1 battery changed and module for the gateway updated, though they are trying to say its my accident camera draining the battery.
 
#36 ·
Hi Volkswarren

Sorry to hear it’s still loosing power. It has to be diagnosed properly, not just have one battery taken out and another one put in. Which is not your fault. Your camera draining the 12v which in turn draws from the bigger battery is a possibility. It is also true to say that any one of the following not functioning correctly will allow a 12v battery to fail.

Power Supply Distribution Box (PSDB).
DCtoDC Charge Converter (DC/DC CC).
Battery Monitor System (BMS).
Body Control Module/GateWay Control Module (BCM/GWM)
Power Supply Distribution Monitor (PSDM).
Power Supply Distribution Box (PSDB).
High Voltage wiring harness faulty
Wiring or Galvanisation issues.
Corrupt software.
Software out of date/expired.
Firmware out of date/expired.
Batteries not meeting stringent operating requirements.
Squirrels.

Corrupt software is a known issue reported by Jaguar Assistance and Squirrels chewing cables was reported to me by my local dealership. That’s why proper diagnosis is important.

What you can do to help yourself if you need to argue the point is photo and log exact times events happen (if you already aren’t).

Disconnect your camera to remove it from the argument and distraction. Note time, temp and GOM range. See what happens next day to your range.

If you are loosing power and don’t do this all that will happen is the service centre will just keep passing it back to you with standard phraseology… “No fault found”. “Couldn’t replicate the fault”. “No evidence of a fault present”….etc.

It has also been proven that some software was preventing the iPace correctly shutting down and this was leading to consistent drain.
 
#23 ·
Like a few others I have had my iPace reduced to useless with the Traction Battery Fault warning appearing this morning.

I have had three fairly long journeys in the last 4 days, with full charges overnight after each. On Friday I had to brake fairly hard when the right turn I was looking for came up unexpectedly, shortly afterwards I got a "Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" caution come up. On Sunday after another 150 mile round-trip the brakes suddenly became "hard" and I had a job slowing the car for a T-junction.
The following morning I am faced with "Traction Battery Fault" on the car won't go into "ready" mode.
I see other threads with this as the conclusion and, while I have had my iPace for nearly 4 trouble free years and covered over 30k miles, I now realise I know virtually nothing about the internal workings!

So, I need your help! My Dealership is useless - they tell me they can look at the car some time after August 1st (this is the 26th of June)! I have searched for independent EV Repair Garages and there are a few out there, but none have had a Jaguar iPace before and I am reluctant to have the car transported there.

What are my best options?

I have a 12v battery charger from back in my ICE days, but have no idea where the 12 v battery is on my vehicle.

Be gentle!

Dave
 
#26 ·
Like a few others I have had my iPace reduced to useless with the Traction Battery Fault warning appearing this morning.

I have had three fairly long journeys in the last 4 days, with full charges overnight after each. On Friday I had to brake fairly hard when the right turn I was looking for came up unexpectedly, shortly afterwards I got a "Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" caution come up. On Sunday after another 150 mile round-trip the brakes suddenly became "hard" and I had a job slowing the car for a T-junction.
The following morning I am faced with "Traction Battery Fault" on the car won't go into "ready" mode.
I see other threads with this as the conclusion and, while I have had my iPace for nearly 4 trouble free years and covered over 30k miles, I now realise I know virtually nothing about the internal workings!

So, I need your help! My Dealership is useless - they tell me they can look at the car some time after August 1st (this is the 26th of June)! I have searched for independent EV Repair Garages and there are a few out there, but none have had a Jaguar iPace before and I am reluctant to have the car transported there.

What are my best options?

I have a 12v battery charger from back in my ICE days, but have no idea where the 12 v battery is on my vehicle.

Be gentle!

Dave
Morning Dave

Here’s a link to finding the 12v batteries. Put the screws in a cup so you don’t loose them.

A wait time if 5 weeks is the average at the moment (June 2023) to get a booking for repair. 10 weeks is the longest. Option 2: Take the booking and then cancel latter if something better comes up. Option 1: Jaguar Assistance. They’ll do more to help, check software is up to date, measure amps and volts on the 12v batteries and if she needs to go to the vet, they’ll expedite the appointment and arrange a courtesy car ‘if’ they can. If it is a 12v battery issue Jaguar Assistance will do a much better diagnosis than a dealership and will check if the BECM software is up to date.

It’s a headache situation but I wouldn’t take my car to an independent ev specialist yet. There are too many issues with the iPace and the specialist market isn’t developed enough yet. I can’t see them getting parts (if needed) any quicker than JLR and you could be opening an even bigger can of worms and an even longer repair time.

I understand your frustration and concern. I’m starting week 13 yesterday without a charging car and it’s been 9 weeks at the dealership so I don’t offer advice trivially.

What manufactured year and model are you driving?
 
#24 ·
open the frunk and as you look towards the windscreen there are two plastic screw trim panel retainers, remove these and lift the panel up, depending on your i-pace you will see 2 batteries, a larger one on the left and a smaller one on the right.
 
#25 ·
 
#31 ·
Morning Dave

Here’s a link to finding the 12v batteries. Put the screws in a cup so you don’t loose them.

A wait time if 5 weeks is the average at the moment (June 2023) to get a booking for repair. 10 weeks is the longest. Option 2: Take the booking and then cancel latter if something better comes up. Option 1: Jaguar Assistance. They’ll do more to help, check software is up to date, measure amps and volts on the 12v batteries and if she needs to go to the vet, they’ll expedite the appointment and arrange a courtesy car ‘if’ they can. If it is a 12v battery issue Jaguar Assistance will do a much better diagnosis than a dealership and will check if the BECM software is up to date.

It’s a headache situation but I wouldn’t take my car to an independent ev specialist yet. There are too many issues with the iPace and the specialist market isn’t developed enough yet. I can’t see them getting parts (if needed) any quicker than JLR and you could be opening an even bigger can of worms and an even longer repair time.

I understand your frustration and concern. I’m starting week 13 yesterday without a charging car and it’s been 9 weeks at the dealership so I don’t offer advice trivially.

What manufactured year and model are you driving?
Hi,
I have a EV-400 SE dating from October 2019.
I took the car into the Dealer this morning and spoke with their Assistant Manager, who was sympathetic but generally unhelpful. I then got a confirmation text from then confirming that the car would be seen on the 9th of August! They called and promised that this was only to get the car into the "system" and they hoped to get the car into the workshop earlier, if possible. Apparently they only have one technician qualified to work on their electric vehicles. This sounds a bit like the NHS to me!
Having given this issue some thought, I am surprised and concerned that thgis issue is not taken more seriously by JLR - should this not be a Recall Issue or at least a Cautionary Note? If this little auxiliary battery loses charge, your brakes fail! Only an amber warning precedes this failure, which is surely dangerous!
I was also delighted to note from the video that the film showed the difficulty the lad had in removing the plastic retaining screws from the panel over the battery compartment. The film cut away after he stripped the threads! Same thing happened to me! I had to prise the screw out with the edge of a screwdriver. Cheap plastic.
Well the car is now in the dealership and I am waiting to hear about a courtesy car. I'm not holding my breath.
Thanks again for all the help.
Dave [Eugene2019]
 
#27 ·
Press the button;

JAGUAR ASSISTANCE
Jaguar Assistance provides assistance in motoring emergencies, from immobilization
due to mechanical breakdown to minor problems such as punctures. You can rely on our
roadside assistance, whatever the situation, anywhere in North America during the vehicle's
warranty period.
 
#28 ·
Like a few others I have had my iPace reduced to useless with the Traction Battery Fault warning appearing this morning.

I have had three fairly long journeys in the last 4 days, with full charges overnight after each. On Friday I had to brake fairly hard when the right turn I was looking for came up unexpectedly, shortly afterwards I got a "Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" caution come up. On Sunday after another 150 mile round-trip the brakes suddenly became "hard" and I had a job slowing the car for a T-junction.
The following morning I am faced with "Traction Battery Fault" on the car won't go into "ready" mode.
I see other threads with this as the conclusion and, while I have had my iPace for nearly 4 trouble free years and covered over 30k miles, I now realise I know virtually nothing about the internal workings!

So, I need your help! My Dealership is useless - they tell me they can look at the car some time after August 1st (this is the 26th of June)! I have searched for independent EV Repair Garages and there are a few out there, but none have had a Jaguar iPace before and I am reluctant to have the car transported there.

What are my best options?

I have a 12v battery charger from back in my ICE days, but have no idea where the 12 v battery is on my vehicle.

Be gentle!

Dave
Thanks to everyone who responded to my post.

Update: I found both batteries - the plastic panels in the front of the car as about as cheap as you could imagine! I borrowed a top of the range battery analyser/charger from a pal. I connected the battery analyser to the larger 12v battery and got an immediate "100%" and an encouraging Thumbs up on the display. Then moved to the second battery - fiddly to get the red cover off and connect to the +ve terminal. When connected the battery analyser would not even light up! Battery dead as a doornail. Connected the charger to the mains and set on "Auto" and it immediately started to charge the battery. After 6 hours it was showing 80% and I disconnected and tried to start the car - success! Now, I'll leave it overnight and see how the charge holds up. At least it looks like I'll be able to drive the 6 miles to my local Dealer. When talking to them yesterday they have offered to look at my car in early AUGUST!

So from the experience from others, it looks like new batteries are required - seems a shame to change out the larger 12v battery, that appears to be working normally. Anyway, this is real progress and I am grateful to those of you who were willing to share your knowledge.

Regards,

Dave
 
#30 · (Edited)
Good morning Dave

Glad to hear you’ve made some progress.

Before spending money I would check the following and ask some reasonable questions.

1. Are all the software modules that are required to charge both the 12volt batteries up to date with the latest versions.

2. Are there any error codes that point to one of several hardware components that work as a team to monitor and correctly charge the 12v batteries, in a state of fault?

3. Ask how much it will cost the approved dealership to replace both batteries with Labour and VAT before the work is carried out.

If it is your 12v batteries that are at fault you could consider buying them yourself and changing them yourself if your are confident and practical minded. A few others on the forum have done this themselves at a cost of about £200-£250 for both batteries. You may find the warranty for each individual battery bought separately may be better than JLRs.

Alternatively you may prefer to go the service centre route but I would have the issue correctly diagnosed before handing over money. Why? Because JLR state:

“Issue:
Investigations have concluded that the NAS market are renewing large quantites of 12V lead acid batteries. However, when removed batteries are then charged and tested in accordance with the Jaguar Land Rover (JLR) workshop manual specification, they are recovering charge and are deemed suitable for use and therefore should not have been renewed under warranty.
Cause:
The diagnostic processes are not being followed to identify the root cause and required resolution.”

This line “should not have been renewed under warranty” also translates to “the customer should not have been charged for batteries they did not need”.

It may well be the case that one of your 12v batteries does need replacing but it should be diagnosed correctly first rather than just charging you a hour for 30 minutes Labour for two batteries you may not need. Of course your peace of mind is important to consider too. I point this out as there are at least two cases where dealerships have charged customers more than £600 for a less than an hours work for two batteries which cost no more than £250 inc VAT.

After reading the below JLR statement one could reasonably ask “so what do the dealerships do with the batteries that “recover charge and are deemed perfectly suitable for use?”

*See JLR notice below.
 

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#29 ·
I always keep a battery booster in my car in case of 12 V problems. Due to that i never have any problems :) , but think I need to put a screwdriver in the car to get access to the batteries in case.

Good to hear you temporary fixed the problem but I do not think et only problem is the 12 V battery. Something has gone wrong with the charging of it too....
 
#33 · (Edited)
Good to see those prizes, but not sure I will find those in Norway 😃.

When, and I think it is when I have problems, I will do it my selves but I have some experience in this. It is not very difficult I understand but one must be sure to properly insulate the battery cables from earth during the operation. The car do not know what is going on and might start charging 12v which might end up with a costly damage if 12v + grounded...

Remember also to put the car I service mode before starting the job. There is also an routine in what battery to disconnect and reconnect first, so you need to know what you are doing and prepare yourselves with some guidelines.