[slowlane]

It could be the battery or a fault on the system that charges it.

Yes indeed if the battery management system is faulty then new batteries will also fail

 

[Volkswarren]

Cars back from dealer, only 1 battery changed and module for the gateway updated, though they are trying to say its my accident camera draining the battery.

 

[Eugene2019]

Like a few others I have had my iPace reduced to useless with the Traction Battery Fault warning appearing this morning.

I have had three fairly long journeys in the last 4 days, with full charges overnight after each. On Friday I had to brake fairly hard when the right turn I was looking for came up unexpectedly, shortly afterwards I got a "Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" caution come up. On Sunday after another 150 mile round-trip the brakes suddenly became "hard" and I had a job slowing the car for a T-junction.
The following morning I am faced with "Traction Battery Fault" on the car won't go into "ready" mode.
I see other threads with this as the conclusion and, while I have had my iPace for nearly 4 trouble free years and covered over 30k miles, I now realise I know virtually nothing about the internal workings!

So, I need your help! My Dealership is useless - they tell me they can look at the car some time after August 1st (this is the 26th of June)! I have searched for independent EV Repair Garages and there are a few out there, but none have had a Jaguar iPace before and I am reluctant to have the car transported there.

What are my best options?

I have a 12v battery charger from back in my ICE days, but have no idea where the 12 v battery is on my vehicle.

Be gentle!

Dave

 

[Volkswarren]

open the frunk and as you look towards the windscreen there are two plastic screw trim panel retainers, remove these and lift the panel up, depending on your i-pace you will see 2 batteries, a larger one on the left and a smaller one on the right.

 

[Ayepace]

What to expect and do with 12V battery failures - pre-MY21

In vehicles made before the 2021 model year, there are two 12V batteries. These are located in the frunk under the center removable panel and easily located by the red caps on their positive posts. The larger battery is referred to as the starter battery. This one is oriented differently from...

www.i-paceforum.com

2020 MY and before Auxiliary battery replacement

The attached document describes how to replace the small auxiliary battery in the the 2020 and before model years. If you use a Jaguar Land Rover labeled battery (or Exide EK151 equivalent) then you only need page 4 for a step-by-step instruction list. The rest of the document is for persons...

www.i-paceforum.com

 

[Aurora Blue]

Like a few others I have had my iPace reduced to useless with the Traction Battery Fault warning appearing this morning.

I have had three fairly long journeys in the last 4 days, with full charges overnight after each. On Friday I had to brake fairly hard when the right turn I was looking for came up unexpectedly, shortly afterwards I got a "Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" caution come up. On Sunday after another 150 mile round-trip the brakes suddenly became "hard" and I had a job slowing the car for a T-junction.
The following morning I am faced with "Traction Battery Fault" on the car won't go into "ready" mode.
I see other threads with this as the conclusion and, while I have had my iPace for nearly 4 trouble free years and covered over 30k miles, I now realise I know virtually nothing about the internal workings!

So, I need your help! My Dealership is useless - they tell me they can look at the car some time after August 1st (this is the 26th of June)! I have searched for independent EV Repair Garages and there are a few out there, but none have had a Jaguar iPace before and I am reluctant to have the car transported there.

What are my best options?

I have a 12v battery charger from back in my ICE days, but have no idea where the 12 v battery is on my vehicle.

Be gentle!

Dave

Morning Dave

Here’s a link to finding the 12v batteries. Put the screws in a cup so you don’t loose them.

A wait time if 5 weeks is the average at the moment (June 2023) to get a booking for repair. 10 weeks is the longest. Option 2: Take the booking and then cancel latter if something better comes up. Option 1: Jaguar Assistance. They’ll do more to help, check software is up to date, measure amps and volts on the 12v batteries and if she needs to go to the vet, they’ll expedite the appointment and arrange a courtesy car ‘if’ they can. If it is a 12v battery issue Jaguar Assistance will do a much better diagnosis than a dealership and will check if the BECM software is up to date.

It’s a headache situation but I wouldn’t take my car to an independent ev specialist yet. There are too many issues with the iPace and the specialist market isn’t developed enough yet. I can’t see them getting parts (if needed) any quicker than JLR and you could be opening an even bigger can of worms and an even longer repair time.

I understand your frustration and concern. I’m starting week 13 yesterday without a charging car and it’s been 9 weeks at the dealership so I don’t offer advice trivially.

What manufactured year and model are you driving?

 

[Maxwell_400]

Press the button;

JAGUAR ASSISTANCE
Jaguar Assistance provides assistance in motoring emergencies, from immobilization
due to mechanical breakdown to minor problems such as punctures. You can rely on our
roadside assistance, whatever the situation, anywhere in North America during the vehicle's
warranty period.

 

[Eugene2019]

Like a few others I have had my iPace reduced to useless with the Traction Battery Fault warning appearing this morning.

I have had three fairly long journeys in the last 4 days, with full charges overnight after each. On Friday I had to brake fairly hard when the right turn I was looking for came up unexpectedly, shortly afterwards I got a "Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" caution come up. On Sunday after another 150 mile round-trip the brakes suddenly became "hard" and I had a job slowing the car for a T-junction.
The following morning I am faced with "Traction Battery Fault" on the car won't go into "ready" mode.
I see other threads with this as the conclusion and, while I have had my iPace for nearly 4 trouble free years and covered over 30k miles, I now realise I know virtually nothing about the internal workings!

So, I need your help! My Dealership is useless - they tell me they can look at the car some time after August 1st (this is the 26th of June)! I have searched for independent EV Repair Garages and there are a few out there, but none have had a Jaguar iPace before and I am reluctant to have the car transported there.

What are my best options?

I have a 12v battery charger from back in my ICE days, but have no idea where the 12 v battery is on my vehicle.

Be gentle!

Dave

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post.

Update: I found both batteries - the plastic panels in the front of the car as about as cheap as you could imagine! I borrowed a top of the range battery analyser/charger from a pal. I connected the battery analyser to the larger 12v battery and got an immediate "100%" and an encouraging Thumbs up on the display. Then moved to the second battery - fiddly to get the red cover off and connect to the +ve terminal. When connected the battery analyser would not even light up! Battery dead as a doornail. Connected the charger to the mains and set on "Auto" and it immediately started to charge the battery. After 6 hours it was showing 80% and I disconnected and tried to start the car - success! Now, I'll leave it overnight and see how the charge holds up. At least it looks like I'll be able to drive the 6 miles to my local Dealer. When talking to them yesterday they have offered to look at my car in early AUGUST!

So from the experience from others, it looks like new batteries are required - seems a shame to change out the larger 12v battery, that appears to be working normally. Anyway, this is real progress and I am grateful to those of you who were willing to share your knowledge.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Ingenioren]

I always keep a battery booster in my car in case of 12 V problems. Due to that i never have any problems , but think I need to put a screwdriver in the car to get access to the batteries in case.

Good to hear you temporary fixed the problem but I do not think et only problem is the 12 V battery. Something has gone wrong with the charging of it too....

 

[Aurora Blue]

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post.

Update: I found both batteries - the plastic panels in the front of the car as about as cheap as you could imagine! I borrowed a top of the range battery analyser/charger from a pal. I connected the battery analyser to the larger 12v battery and got an immediate "100%" and an encouraging Thumbs up on the display. Then moved to the second battery - fiddly to get the red cover off and connect to the +ve terminal. When connected the battery analyser would not even light up! Battery dead as a doornail. Connected the charger to the mains and set on "Auto" and it immediately started to charge the battery. After 6 hours it was showing 80% and I disconnected and tried to start the car - success! Now, I'll leave it overnight and see how the charge holds up. At least it looks like I'll be able to drive the 6 miles to my local Dealer. When talking to them yesterday they have offered to look at my car in early AUGUST!

So from the experience from others, it looks like new batteries are required - seems a shame to change out the larger 12v battery, that appears to be working normally. Anyway, this is real progress and I am grateful to those of you who were willing to share your knowledge.

Regards,

Dave

Good morning Dave

Glad to hear you’ve made some progress.

Before spending money I would check the following and ask some reasonable questions.

1. Are all the software modules that are required to charge both the 12volt batteries up to date with the latest versions.

2. Are there any error codes that point to one of several hardware components that work as a team to monitor and correctly charge the 12v batteries, in a state of fault?

3. Ask how much it will cost the approved dealership to replace both batteries with Labour and VAT before the work is carried out.

If it is your 12v batteries that are at fault you could consider buying them yourself and changing them yourself if your are confident and practical minded. A few others on the forum have done this themselves at a cost of about £200-£250 for both batteries. You may find the warranty for each individual battery bought separately may be better than JLRs.

Alternatively you may prefer to go the service centre route but I would have the issue correctly diagnosed before handing over money. Why? Because JLR state:

“Issue:
Investigations have concluded that the NAS market are renewing large quantites of 12V lead acid batteries. However, when removed batteries are then charged and tested in accordance with the Jaguar Land Rover (JLR) workshop manual specification, they are recovering charge and are deemed suitable for use and therefore should not have been renewed under warranty.
Cause:
The diagnostic processes are not being followed to identify the root cause and required resolution.”

This line “should not have been renewed under warranty” also translates to “the customer should not have been charged for batteries they did not need”.

It may well be the case that one of your 12v batteries does need replacing but it should be diagnosed correctly first rather than just charging you a hour for 30 minutes Labour for two batteries you may not need. Of course your peace of mind is important to consider too. I point this out as there are at least two cases where dealerships have charged customers more than £600 for a less than an hours work for two batteries which cost no more than £250 inc VAT.

After reading the below JLR statement one could reasonably ask “so what do the dealerships do with the batteries that “recover charge and are deemed perfectly suitable for use?”

*See JLR notice below.

 

[Eugene2019]

Morning Dave

Here’s a link to finding the 12v batteries. Put the screws in a cup so you don’t loose them.

A wait time if 5 weeks is the average at the moment (June 2023) to get a booking for repair. 10 weeks is the longest. Option 2: Take the booking and then cancel latter if something better comes up. Option 1: Jaguar Assistance. They’ll do more to help, check software is up to date, measure amps and volts on the 12v batteries and if she needs to go to the vet, they’ll expedite the appointment and arrange a courtesy car ‘if’ they can. If it is a 12v battery issue Jaguar Assistance will do a much better diagnosis than a dealership and will check if the BECM software is up to date.

It’s a headache situation but I wouldn’t take my car to an independent ev specialist yet. There are too many issues with the iPace and the specialist market isn’t developed enough yet. I can’t see them getting parts (if needed) any quicker than JLR and you could be opening an even bigger can of worms and an even longer repair time.

I understand your frustration and concern. I’m starting week 13 yesterday without a charging car and it’s been 9 weeks at the dealership so I don’t offer advice trivially.

What manufactured year and model are you driving?

Hi,
I have a EV-400 SE dating from October 2019.
I took the car into the Dealer this morning and spoke with their Assistant Manager, who was sympathetic but generally unhelpful. I then got a confirmation text from then confirming that the car would be seen on the 9th of August! They called and promised that this was only to get the car into the "system" and they hoped to get the car into the workshop earlier, if possible. Apparently they only have one technician qualified to work on their electric vehicles. This sounds a bit like the NHS to me!
Having given this issue some thought, I am surprised and concerned that thgis issue is not taken more seriously by JLR - should this not be a Recall Issue or at least a Cautionary Note? If this little auxiliary battery loses charge, your brakes fail! Only an amber warning precedes this failure, which is surely dangerous!
I was also delighted to note from the video that the film showed the difficulty the lad had in removing the plastic retaining screws from the panel over the battery compartment. The film cut away after he stripped the threads! Same thing happened to me! I had to prise the screw out with the edge of a screwdriver. Cheap plastic.
Well the car is now in the dealership and I am waiting to hear about a courtesy car. I'm not holding my breath.
Thanks again for all the help.
Dave [Eugene2019]

 

[N2STY]

A few others on the forum have done this themselves at a cost of about £200-£250 for both batteries.

Less than that now

 

[Ingenioren]

Good to see those prizes, but not sure I will find those in Norway 😃.

When, and I think it is when I have problems, I will do it my selves but I have some experience in this. It is not very difficult I understand but one must be sure to properly insulate the battery cables from earth during the operation. The car do not know what is going on and might start charging 12v which might end up with a costly damage if 12v + grounded...

Remember also to put the car I service mode before starting the job. There is also an routine in what battery to disconnect and reconnect first, so you need to know what you are doing and prepare yourselves with some guidelines.

 

[Volkswarren]

Car is still faulty hazard light switch is staying on all the time so the car is never going to sleep, lost 3% traction battery overnight.
They only replaced the larger 12v battery not the small one, could this be why?

 

[6225]

Car is still faulty hazard light switch is staying on all the time so the car is never going to sleep, lost 3% traction battery overnight.
They only replaced the larger 12v battery not the small one, could this be why?

Yes, possibly. Best practice is to replace both at the same time. The large one is likely compensating for the loss of the small one (auxiliary battery, EK151). So the large one is drawing from the HV.

 

[Aurora Blue]

Cars back from dealer, only 1 battery changed and module for the gateway updated, though they are trying to say its my accident camera draining the battery.

Hi Volkswarren

Sorry to hear it’s still loosing power. It has to be diagnosed properly, not just have one battery taken out and another one put in. Which is not your fault. Your camera draining the 12v which in turn draws from the bigger battery is a possibility. It is also true to say that any one of the following not functioning correctly will allow a 12v battery to fail.

Power Supply Distribution Box (PSDB).
DCtoDC Charge Converter (DC/DC CC).
Battery Monitor System (BMS).
Body Control Module/GateWay Control Module (BCM/GWM)
Power Supply Distribution Monitor (PSDM).
Power Supply Distribution Box (PSDB).
High Voltage wiring harness faulty
Wiring or Galvanisation issues.
Corrupt software.
Software out of date/expired.
Firmware out of date/expired.
Batteries not meeting stringent operating requirements.
Squirrels.

Corrupt software is a known issue reported by Jaguar Assistance and Squirrels chewing cables was reported to me by my local dealership. That’s why proper diagnosis is important.

What you can do to help yourself if you need to argue the point is photo and log exact times events happen (if you already aren’t).

Disconnect your camera to remove it from the argument and distraction. Note time, temp and GOM range. See what happens next day to your range.

If you are loosing power and don’t do this all that will happen is the service centre will just keep passing it back to you with standard phraseology… “No fault found”. “Couldn’t replicate the fault”. “No evidence of a fault present”….etc.

It has also been proven that some software was preventing the iPace correctly shutting down and this was leading to consistent drain.

 

[Ayepace]

Smaller battery powers the brake booster, front motor EPIC and parking lock. It should not have a power draw when the car is off. The larger one powers the 12V system when the car is shut down.

Dealer can't say the problem can't be duplicated if the hazard light remains on. Take the car in, lock car, and wait there for 15 minutes so you can point out that the light is still on. They can't deny it if you both see it at the same time.

Dealer needs to properly diagnose why 12V system isn't shutting down. Maybe Jaguar Assist can do it.

How did you supply power to you accident camera? Does it draw power when the car is off or is it connected to switched power?

 

[Volkswarren]

The accident cam is powered by an odb port plug, I’ve disconnected and the car still didn’t go to sleep. The car went into jag and said they updated software to resolve, but obviously not.

 

[Volkswarren]

I have also got the smaller battery now, don’t want to fit that currently as my wife is talking about rejecting the car.

 

[Ayepace]

USB ports get shut off after 10 minutes when the car is shut off and locked. Your camera can't discharge the battery.

However the car's 12V system is staying active so the ports may remain active too.

This won't be solved until a proper diagnosis of why the 12V system isn't powering down. Could be GWM or DC-DC converter need updating.