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Good shout on the silica. I just recently had my windscreen replaced by autoglass so i don't think it can be that
Problem is water hides a lot of places unless carpet was pulled out and drive properly
 
Possibilities in no particular order:
  • Clogged HVAC drain tubes or tubes draining into car instead of out of it
  • Faulty humidity sensor
  • Faulty interior temperature sensor
  • Improper AC refrigerant charge
  • Incorrect manual operation of HVAC
  • Excessive moisture in carpet or padding under carpet, or on floor mats (snow that clung to shoes)
  • Blend air doors not operating correctly
  • Faulty ambient air temperature sensor (easy to diagnose by temperature display on cluster)
  • Excessively sweaty passengers :unsure:
I keep mine in automatic mode and just adjust the temperature and occasionally activate/disable the ionizer. It seems to do everything expected for routing the air flow, adjusting fan speed, and turning on/off front and rear window heating grids. I may reactivate the window heating if exceptional circumstances arise.
 
Where are the drain tubes? As Ayepace suggests the drain tubes this does look highly likely as some of the accounts look like the car is actually creating the issue at certain times.
I think something constant like wet carpets etc would be less on/off re misting and especially bad when you first walk up to your car in the morning (if not cabin pre conditioned)
If this was the case an experiment leaving the Aircon off might assist in diagnosing? (If possible)
 
This picture gives a hint of where they are inside the front section of the center console on both sides.
Image


I don't know how much disassembly is required to get to them.
Certainly you need to remove the side trim on the console.
Image
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There's a lot work work to remove the center console and front carpet entirely to gain more access.
 
I you have the aircon set to recirculate food in the boot would cause this. Otherwise check you havn’t got a leaking windscreen which is common or panoramic roof, possibly door seal.
 
Snipped this from a wiring harness picture the shows how the tubes run on each side of the center console.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
This was a side effect before I tapped up my leaking windscreen I also keep a 1kg bag of silica in the car to attract the unwanted moisture
I don't get any condensation now
Unlikely to be that as I had screen replaced due to a crack, and it did it before and after. It always takes the unique atmospheric situation, which seems to be forecast again in a few days. It is deffo created by the HVAC system blowing out wet air.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Possibilities in no particular order:
  • Clogged HVAC drain tubes or tubes draining into car instead of out of it
  • Faulty humidity sensor
  • Faulty interior temperature sensor
  • Improper AC refrigerant charge
I'm going for fault 2 , but will live with it...
 
OK today I got fed up with the ridiculous misting of every window in the car whenever I drive.

Had another look at the air filter... Bone dry.
Then I noticed there's a white door above the air filter which appears to be the recirculation blend door. The little sticker on the piece of plastic which secures the air filter shows that you should turn on recirculation before removing the air filter (and I saw this in the PDF jaguar procedure posted above), but I think this is more so you don't get any nasties into the system from outside while the air filter is removed and not for any mechanical reason.

Anyway, the blend door seemed to be able to be moved freely with no resistance. I left the a/c and fans running so that I could test turning the recirculation on and off and nothing happened with the door. So I think the cause of mine is that the blend door actuator has failed. However I don't see any DTCs stored. Is this because these type of parts don't display any DTCs?
It could be that some plastic part has snapped.
So when putting the air filter back in, I left the door in the open position which means recirculation was off and on a whole 30 mile drive I didn't get any steamed windows.

On the way back however I think the door must've closed itself again (as I mentioned it seemed to move freely and possibly braking had caused it to move to the closed position).

However, even if recirculation was on, in this weather, should that even cause the windows to fog up so badly? Does this indicate that there's a drainage hose blocked somewhere too?

When the windows fog up the air smells really damp.

Not sure how easy a fix this is or whether to leave it to the dealer. I can see lots of these for sale on Ebay so the part doesn't seem expensive. Again. Hard to tell if there aren't any DTCs.
 
The door can be moved manually. Many people do this when changing the filter because they are unaware of powering on the car and activating recirculation mode.

The door is usually in a closed position and you can't see the filter and its holder. Activating recirculation should open the door, closing off outside air intake and allowing cabin air to recirculate. This is when you can see the filter holder and be able to remove it for filter replacement.

Also reference https://www.i-paceforum.com/threads/recirculation-button-behavior.8409/#post-90167

Recirculation is normally timed and defaults to off upon startup.
 
The door can be moved manually. Many people do this when changing the filter because they are unaware of powering on the car and activating recirculation mode.

The door is usually in a closed position and you can't see the filter and its holder. Activating recirculation should open the door, closing off outside air intake and allowing cabin air to recirculate. This is when you can see the filter holder and be able to remove it for filter replacement.

Also reference https://www.i-paceforum.com/threads/recirculation-button-behavior.8409/#post-90167

Recirculation is normally timed and defaults to off upon startup.
Okay good to know.

But if the door isn't moving at all when I toggle recirculation does that point to the actuator?
 
It probably does. Either the motor failed, it is disconnected from the door, the HVAC detects a reason to refuse recirculation.

If you start the car up, put the HVAC in auto mode, then press the recirculation icon for over 10 seconds, can you tell if it locks into recirculation mode and recirculation is happening? See the thread linked above. You should get a message on the panel that recirculation is on.

Something is broken if the door didn't move during the above.
 
I looked up what it takes to replace the actuator. It is a MAJOR job because it is requires removing the heater core and evaporator housing.

There is no arm to get disconnected so that is not a cause.

T2R57567 for LHD and T2R57568 for RHD
 
A recirculation door that is stuck or not engaging should trigger fault codes B1083-13 and/or B1083-71. Other air blending and routing doors have their own fault codes.

This probably should go to a dealer to diagnose.
 
^Could a/c be a cause? On my previous S5 one of the blend doors did not open because the a/c gas was flat. No leak. Just finished.
 
^Could a/c be a cause? On my previous S5 one of the blend doors did not open because the a/c gas was flat. No leak. Just finished.
I don't think in my case it will be because I had problems with the air con not working and the car was in the dealer for over a month getting various pipes and sensors replaced. They did a few pressure tests as well then with no leaks.
 
^Could a/c be a cause? On my previous S5 one of the blend doors did not open because the a/c gas was flat. No leak. Just finished.
See post #42.

An improper AC charge can cause it to either not cool the air to remove moisture or over chill the air and cause condensation. Since this affects the air temperature in the ducts and humidity sensor response it will affect operation of the whole system.
 
See post #42.

An improper AC charge can cause it to either not cool the air to remove moisture or over chill the air and cause condensation. Since this affects the air temperature in the ducts and humidity sensor response it will affect operation of the whole system.
Hmm, in that case I better take it back to the dealer then because they have recently worked on the air con and signed it off as fully fixed.
Is there any sort of warranty in itself on work carried out by the dealer? Or is it pretty much "good luck with that one"?
 
Did you ever get this fixed/diagnosed? I have the same problem.
 
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